Relaxers Are In and Natural Hair Is Out | Why Relaxers are Making a Comeback

Are relaxers REALLY that bad? And why does it seem like everyones going back to them? Let’s break it down.

Lately, I’ve noticed a shift: more and more people, both online and in real life, are talking about going back to relaxers. Some have already made the switch, while others are planning to. It’s a conversation I haven’t seen this active since 2014, before the natural hair movement exploded online around 2015/2016.

So why are people suddenly gravitating back to relaxers? And what’s so bad about them anyway?

Why Are Relaxers Making a Comeback?

One reason, I think, is the lasting impact of how the natural hair movement was presented—and often misrepresented—during its peak.

The Glorification of Type 3 Hair

When the natural hair movement took off, it was supposed to be about embracing all textures. But if we’re being honest, not all textures were celebrated equally. Type 3 hair (loose, defined curls) often became the face of the movement. Social media influencers and brands pushed this image, leaving those with tighter textures (Type 4 hair, especially 4C) feeling excluded or underrepresented.

I witnessed this firsthand. Back in high school, I would get comments like, “Your hair looks nappy,” or “You need to comb it,” or even “It looks like you got electrocuted.” These weren’t critiques of my natural hair—they were attacks on the fact that I didn’t have looser, more socially accepted curls.

Because Type 3 hair became the standard for “acceptable” natural hair, many people transitioned with unrealistic expectations. They envisioned big, bouncy, loose curls and were disappointed when their real texture didn’t match what they saw online. For many, this frustration eventually turned into exhaustion.

The Lack of Representation for Type 4 Hair

Back then, there were very few popular Type 4 content creators. Influencers like Naptural85 stood out, but they were exceptions, not the norm. The lack of representation left a gap in education and inspiration for people with tighter textures. Without guidance on how to care for their hair, many Type 4 naturals felt lost, frustrated, and fed up.

It’s no surprise that many are now turning to relaxers. For some, it’s about simplicity. For others, it’s about convenience. I’ve heard friends with Type 4 hair say they’re tired of the effort it takes to care for their hair. One of my friends even relaxed her hair last year.

What’s So Bad About Relaxers Anyway?

Relaxers fell out of favor for several reasons, some more widely understood than others:

1. Health Risks

Relaxers often contain chemicals like lye (sodium hydroxide), which permanently alter the structure of your hair. Over time, these chemicals can cause scalp burns, thinning, and breakage. Beyond that, studies have linked some relaxer ingredients to carcinogenic and endocrine-disrupting properties. This means that long-term exposure could increase the risk of certain cancers and hormone-related health issues.

2. Self-Hate Narratives

The natural hair movement shed light on the societal pressures that pushed many people to relax their hair in the first place. For decades, straight hair was seen as the professional, acceptable standard, while natural textures were stigmatized. Relaxers were often marketed as a way to “fix” or “tame” natural hair, reinforcing harmful messages about beauty and self-worth.

While these are valid concerns, I don’t believe in condemning anyone for choosing to relax their hair. At the end of the day, it’s just that—a choice.

Respecting Individual Choices

We don’t know everyone’s story. Some people simply don’t have the time, energy, or resources to dedicate to caring for their natural hair. Others may just prefer the look and ease of relaxed hair. Whatever the reason, it’s not our place to judge.

One thing I’ve noticed in the natural hair community is this strange parasocial relationship where people feel entitled to police others’ hair choices. It’s not helpful, and it doesn’t create a welcoming environment. Forcing someone to conform to your idea of what they “should” do with their hair will only push them further away.

Instead of shaming others, we should focus on our own hair journeys. Be an example of what you want to see. For the past five years, I’ve tried to do just that—embrace my texture and inspire others to do the same.

Final Thoughts: A Call for Balance

Relaxers aren’t for everyone, and they come with huge risks that definitely shouldn’t be ignored. But for some people, they feel like the best or only option—and that’s okay. While I’ll always advocate for loving your natural hair, I also believe in respecting individual choices whether I like the choice or not.

If you’re someone considering a relaxer, I encourage you to do your research. Make sure you understand the massive risks and weigh them against your personal needs. And if you’re someone who feels strongly against relaxers, use that passion to celebrate and embrace your own hair rather than tear others down.

Ultimately, the goal of the natural hair movement was to give us the freedom to choose. Whether that’s wearing your hair natural, relaxed, wigs, or straightened—it’s your decision. Let’s create a space where all hair journeys are respected no matter what path they choose.