Are Wash and Gos the Key to Hair Growth?
How wash and gos helped (and later hurt) my hair, and what to do if they stop working.
This question comes up all the time, especially in the natural hair community. Do wash and gos actually help your hair grow?
Short answer? They can. But it really depends on your routine, your hair’s porosity, and how much moisture and patience you’re working with.
When Wash and Gos Worked for Me
Back when my hair was low porosity and undyed, wash and gos were one of the easiest ways for me to retain moisture and avoid breakage. But they only worked because I had a routine that matched my hair’s needs.
Here’s what that looked like:
I’d start with African Pride pre-shampoo to detangle, using a Tangle Teezer or wide-tooth comb in sections.
Shampoo, nothing particular. I wasn’t too picky.
Deep condition (no regular conditioner) for 30 to 60 minutes under a cap or steamer. (Was this extra? Maybe…but it worked for sure.)
Rinse with cool water, section into four, and apply a leave-in and curl cream or gel.
Seal with a light oil like almond oil.
Diffuse to dry, and use a blow dryer to stretch if I wanted length.
And then every two or three days, I’d refresh using a mix of As I Am leave-in + water in a spray bottle.
That combo worked because I was consistent. When I skipped re-moisturizing or didn’t detangle enough, my curls would tangle up and dry out fast. Wash and gos only worked when I was on top of my routine.
When They Stopped Working
The moment I dyed my hair and became high porosity, everything changed.
My hair dried way faster — what used to take three hours with a diffuser now takes 30–45 minutes. And I noticed my hair was significantly drier, even on Day 1. I was refreshing just like before, but the moisture wasn’t lasting. The tangles were worse. The definition disappeared faster.
That’s when I realized: wash and gos are not universal.
The Truth About Wash and Gos
Some people (especially those with looser Type 3 curls or low-density Type 4 hair) can thrive with wash and gos. But if your hair is:
Color-treated
High porosity
Thick or tightly coiled Then you might find that wash and gos cause more tangles, breakage, and dryness than actual growth.
And honestly, I think some influencers oversell wash and gos without explaining that what works for their texture might not work for yours. Especially if they’re working with looser curls that don’t tangle as easily.
Signs Your Wash and Go Might Be Hurting Your Hair
You see little pieces of hair breaking off when you touch it.
Your ends feel rough or crunchy, even right after moisturizing.
Your hair looks undefined by Day 2.
You’re having to detangle way too much when wash day rolls around.
If that sounds familiar, your wash and go might be doing more harm than good.
What I Do Now
These days, I keep it simple:
Mini twists: They stay neat for weeks, don’t tangle, and I only need to re-moisturize the ends.
Wigs and half-wigs: I cornrow my hair underneath and only worry about the leave-out.
Gentle refresh days: Less detangling, less breakage.
These styles let me protect my ends, reduce tension, and retain length….which is the whole point, right?
So are wash and gos the key to hair growth? For some naturals, yes. But not for everybody. Your routine, hair texture, and porosity all play a role. The real key? Listening to your hair and adjusting when something stops working.
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